2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread PART 3 (Everything BK)

[Ashful]

As to combustor accumulation. I have been trying to replicate Ashful's experience. First observation, my fire and coal bed is much further away from the combustor than his Ashford. The King is 9" deep.

Nevertheless, I had formed a deep enough coal bed (about 5" deep of solid coals) by burning a load of maple on high. I did this again on low and could not get much in the way of accumulation.

Then, I noticed each time I cleaned out my stove, large amounts of material were going up, onto and through the flame shield. I see the accumulation clearly as the draft pulled particles into the cat.

So, I opened the by pass and that action changed the direction of the particles, greatly reducing accumulation in my cat.

Is this causing others to increase accumulation? Perhaps, but in my King, it was OBVIOUS!

Thank you for looking at this, Chris. At each reload, I use an ash rake to plow the ashes under, and the coals naturally rise to the top. I then rake the coals forward, and load new wood N/S on top. Bypass is open, and plenty of dust gets sucked up the flue during the plowing.

It seems you’re saying that some of this dust is depositing on the flame shield, and then later gets sucked into the cat, when I close the bypass on the next load? It seems this is a possible explanation for the front-side fly ash buildup I’ve been seeing.

It seems to occur most on extended high burn rates, but maybe that’s what it takes to pull ash off the flame shield and into the combustor. I’d think it would happen during that 30 minute high burn we do on every load, but maybe that’s just not enough time for it to occur as completely as it does on these extended burns.

The real bizarre mystery is the back-side build-up in my photo from last Saturday, which might be related, or a completely separate issue. I think Tarzan said he had the same on his Princess cat. That really has me stumped.

 

[lsucet]

Is @tarzan using steel or ceramic cat with the princess?

 

[Highbeam]

Ive been burning my princess for several years now, usually on low settings, 9 months or so per year.

I’ve noticed in the last couple of months that the thermostat is getting lazy or weak. During warm up it fails to close the throttle blade and I notice stove temps getting higher than they should with lots of flames. I turn the thermostat down until I hear the click and then back to the previous setting and the stove cools.

Do the thermostats get old? Lazy? Worn out?

After the initial reset it works normally for the rest of the load.

Has anyone one else seen this?

 

[BKVP]

Ive been burning my princess for several years now, usually on low settings, 9 months or so per year.

I’ve noticed in the last couple of months that the thermostat is getting lazy or weak. During warm up it fails to close the throttle blade and I notice stove temps getting higher than they should with lots of flames. I turn the thermostat down until I hear the click and then back to the previous setting and the stove cools.

Do the thermostats get old?
They age, but not to where performance is effected.

Lazy?
No sir.

Worn out?
There are gears in there, but man you'd have to really move it a lot over 30+ years to make them wear down.

After the initial reset it works normally for the rest of the load.

You can blow off dust or any debris. Also, don't over tighten the lid screws or you could apply pressure to end of the blade pivot rod. It's slightly recessed, so it should not happen...

Has anyone one else seen this?

 

[jetsam]

Once you get a little more familiar with these stoves, you will likely realize that you need to open the bi-pass anytime you are doing something inside the stove !!
If you have any questions in the future, please don't hesitate to send me a PM..

@BKVP If you have any other questions, I can get you the phone number for Blaze King. I know a guy.

 

[jetsam]

Is this causing others to increase accumulation? Perhaps, but in my King, it was OBVIOUS!

Hm, I just had a thought...

It's obvious to all of us that opening the door with the bypass closed is going to drag a ton of particulate crap through the cat (the turbulence from the door opening and high air flow really stirs it up, and all the air has to pass through the cat). That's one reason we don't do it.

What I just realized is that the amount of airborne ash generated by a given load is not static. Someone with a 10' flue on a warm windy day is going to have very different airflow conditions in the firebox than someone with a 40' flue on a cold calm day, right? It also seems logical that the potential for turbulence increases as airflow decreases- and the actual airflow of this whole system varies based on the intake air setting.

I wonder if the amount that draft variation contributes to the rate of accumulation by kicking up ash in the firebox.

 

[Highbeam]

Thank you @BKVP . I’ll pop the lid and blow her out. I never tighten the cover screws more than snug since they only thread into thin sheet.

May as well put some lube on the spring washers while I’m in there.

The princess has really been a great stove for us. We’re on year six now.

 

[tarzan]

Ashful, your post reminded me that my cat has clogged a few timesView attachment 222786 this season and that my stove was cold right now. Here's a pic of the backside of my steelcat out of the Princess.

 

[lsucet]

Then, this clogging is specific to SS cat.

 

[webby3650]

Then, this clogging is specific to SS cat.

From what I’ve seen, yes.

 

[shoot-straight]

It's 60 here, gonna give mine the old suck and blow tomorrow.

End of season I will pull the cover and service the stat as well.

 

[rdust]

Ive been burning my princess for several years now, usually on low settings, 9 months or so per year.

I’ve noticed in the last couple of months that the thermostat is getting lazy or weak. During warm up it fails to close the throttle blade and I notice stove temps getting higher than they should with lots of flames. I turn the thermostat down until I hear the click and then back to the previous setting and the stove cools.

Do the thermostats get old? Lazy? Worn out?

After the initial reset it works normally for the rest of the load.

Has anyone one else seen this?

I’ve actually thought about replacing mine,it doesn’t behave the same as it did the first few years.(season 7 here) I’ve never cleaned mine so maybe I’ll start there. Mine acts like the bi-metallic spring has lost some tension. On a cold stove my t-stat used to close about 1 1/4, now it’s well below 1.(numbered sticker)

@BKVP Is the calibration for the knob placement as simple as opening the t-stat full open then pointing the knob to 3 1/2(6 o’clock) and tightening the set screw?

 

[jetsam]

I’ve actually thought about replacing mine,it doesn’t behave the same as it did the first few years.(season 7 here) I’ve never cleaned mine so maybe I’ll start there. Mine acts like the bi-metallic spring has lost some tension. On a cold stove my t-stat used to close about 1 1/4, now it’s well below 1.(numbered sticker)

@BKVP Is the calibration for the knob placement as simple as opening the t-stat full open then pointing the knob to 3 1/2(6 o’clock) and tightening the set screw?

You'll also need a precisely temperature and humidity-calibrated living room and three pinches of magical fairy dust.

 

[Ashful]

It's obvious to all of us that opening the door with the bypass closed is going to drag a ton of particulate crap through the cat (the turbulence from the door opening and high air flow really stirs it up, and all the air has to pass through the cat). That's one reason we don't do it.

Just to clear up any doubt, since this was instigated by my plugged cat... I've put about 60 cords thru four cat stoves in six years. In fact, the only type of wood stove I've ever operated in my life is a catalytic stove, with a bypass damper.

Translation: I have a reflexive inability to open the loading door without first opening the bypass. That is not a factor, in this particular case.

I wonder if the amount that draft variation contributes to the rate of accumulation by kicking up ash in the firebox.

That's what I've been proposing, based on some of aaronk25's original observations.

From what I’ve seen, yes.

I've been watching and searching, and everything I've seen agrees. The only case of cat cloggage I've seen not involving a steel cat is the clogging flame screens on some of the Woodstock stoves.

It's 60 here, gonna give mine the old suck and blow tomorrow.

End of season I will pull the cover and service the stat as well.

Dude... it's mid February! I wouldn't assume we're out of the woods, yet.

 

[allan5oh]

Bkvp can i buy from your BC location directly or does it have to be through a dealer? A stove to be specific. We can handle our own transportation to manitoba.

 

[BKVP]

I’ve actually thought about replacing mine,it doesn’t behave the same as it did the first few years.(season 7 here) I’ve never cleaned mine so maybe I’ll start there. Mine acts like the bi-metallic spring has lost some tension. On a cold stove my t-stat used to close about 1 1/4, now it’s well below 1.(numbered sticker)

@BKVP Is the calibration for the knob placement as simple as opening the t-stat full open then pointing the knob to 3 1/2(6 o’clock) and tightening the set screw?

Yes.

 

[BKVP]

Bkvp can i buy from your BC location directly or does it have to be through a dealer? A stove to be specific. We can handle our own transportation to manitoba.

Neither of our facilities permits direct to consumer sales.

 

[allan5oh]

Even if that customer shows up with a 53 foot trailer?

 

[Ashful]

Even if that customer shows up with a 53 foot trailer?

Damn... time to register yourself as a dealer on wheels! The stove shop equivalent of one of my favorite new trends:

 

[Diabel]

Question on OAK.
I asked about it before and I believe Webby answered it (I can't find it now) and I think I am a bit confused.

The stove is going into a sort of "basement" the house is sitting on a 45* hill. 1/2 is completely exposed. It will be super tight so OAK is a good idea.
I believe Webby said that the air supply has to be lower than the stove OAK receiver. Meaning, I cannot run the flex up the inside wall and out above the stove. Does this make sense?

 

[Ashful]

Question on OAK.
I asked about it before and I believe Webby answered it (I can't find it now) and I think I am a bit confused.

The stove is going into a sort of "basement" the house is sitting on a 45* hill. 1/2 is completely exposed. It will be super tight so OAK is a good idea.
I believe Webby said that the air supply has to be lower than the stove OAK receiver. Meaning, I cannot run the flex up the inside wall and out above the stove. Does this make sense?

The concern is that the oak can act as a chimney. If everything is kept in working order, and the chimney outlet is much higher than the OAK inlet (and you don’t do open-door burning), then there’s no impetus for this to happen. However, folks don’t always manage to keep everything in working order, and some stoves may have other sources of inlet which would allow the OAK to become a vent.

I have no idea on the code / legal requirements, I’m just stating the theory and concern.

 

[black smoke signals]

Ive been burning my princess for several years now, usually on low settings, 9 months or so per year.

I’ve noticed in the last couple of months that the thermostat is getting lazy or weak. During warm up it fails to close the throttle blade and I notice stove temps getting higher than they should with lots of flames. I turn the thermostat down until I hear the click and then back to the previous setting and the stove cools.

Do the thermostats get old? Lazy? Worn out?

After the initial reset it works normally for the rest of the load.

Has anyone one else seen this? Highbeam have you seen this update on adjustment to t/stat ? http://www.blazeking.com/EN/instruction_sheets.php

 

[shoot-straight]

Dude... it's mid February! I wouldn't assume we're out of the woods, yet.

I meant to say AT the end of the season. No- we are not done. gonna fire it back up when i get home in fact.

 

[BKVP]

Question on OAK.
I asked about it before and I believe Webby answered it (I can't find it now) and I think I am a bit confused.

The stove is going into a sort of "basement" the house is sitting on a 45* hill. 1/2 is completely exposed. It will be super tight so OAK is a good idea.
I believe Webby said that the air supply has to be lower than the stove OAK receiver. Meaning, I cannot run the flex up the inside wall and out above the stove. Does this make sense?

Do not run any part of the FA kit above the bottom of the firebox of the stove.

Atmosperically, it is possible for draft to reverse.

Run it along the floor to the outside and cover the line with a nice box. When it exits, make certain to keep snow, leaves or other debris from blocking the air source. Have your BK dealer order the 4" diameter kit to help with long runs.

 

[jetsam]

Damn... time to register yourself as a dealer on wheels!

It would be pretty great if we had an option like that... someone who would convince BK to load the stove directly onto an Estes or YRC truck for home delivery ("yes, the showroom moved to a different state again... I know, third time this week, it's crazy...")

It seems pretty rediculous to think that you'd need elaborate schemes featuring third and fourth parties to buy a product from the company that makes it, but here we are.