Probe said 1530 so I pulled out a split

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CTwith3

Member
Jul 9, 2014
139
Westchester County, NY
Probe said 1530 so I pulled out a split. There were only 3 medium splits left in my VC Encore 2040 flex burn. I quickly filled a big tall bucket of water 1/3 of the way, grabbed my tongs and pulled out a log and ran it outside setting off the new detectors. i guess that wood I had filled the stove with was really really dry. I have Olympia Ventis class A double wall pipe going straight up and out- no bends.
At what temperature do I need to start having my next heart attack?
 
Where was the air setting?
 
Wouldn’t closing the bypass and reducing the air to low made more sense? Sounds like you had a small flue fire in the stovepipe. It’s pretty common and easy to do with a top loading stove. Flames are able to shoot straight into the pipe when the bypass is open.
 
This may have been his cat probe, he was probably worried
he was going to go over 1600 and ruining his cat.
 
This may have been his cat probe, he was probably worried
he was going to go over 1600 and ruining his cat.
Yep. When the cat on the Buck 91 started going high, I just opened the bypass for a while..
 
Damper was closed and air control was closed half way when, then when I saw it over 1350 I started to close the air more and more until it was closed. The cat temp was still climbing. I opened the damper for a few minutes to cool down and put the air control to halfway and then to closed, which brought the stove top to just shy 700. I repeated this process a few times. The cat temp dropped down to 1380s the times when I opened the damper.
Also, I had just cleaned out the ash pan yesterday afternoon- did that allow too much air circulation?
Seriously, at what temp do I need to look out for?
Should I get a bag of sand just in case and just smother the fire if it gets out of control?
Flue Fire? Damage?
 
That’s no big deal. I assumed you were referring to a probe thermometer in the flue.
 
Also, I had just cleaned out the ash pan yesterday afternoon- did that allow too much air circulation?
you could check to see if there’s air leaking in anywhere, ie if there’s an ash pan door etc
 
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Damper was closed and air control was closed half way when, then when I saw it over 1350 I started to close the air more and more until it was closed. The cat temp was still climbing. I opened the damper for a few minutes to cool down and put the air control to halfway and then to closed, which brought the stove top to just shy 700. I repeated this process a few times. The cat temp dropped down to 1380s the times when I opened the damper.
Also, I had just cleaned out the ash pan yesterday afternoon- did that allow too much air circulation?
Seriously, at what temp do I need to look out for?
Should I get a bag of sand just in case and just smother the fire if it gets out of control?
Flue Fire? Damage?
I don't want to see the cat any higher than 1600, where they say cat damage can occur to the catalyst coating, if done on a regular basis.
Another thing, when you have some flame in the box, it will eat some of the smoke, so less is available to the cat and it won't burn as hot. As long as your flue doesn't get too hot, no problem. I think you want to stay under 1000 internal flue temp, 12-18" above the stove, to protect the liner (if that's what you have.) Yeah, you can toss sand or ashes on the load to smother it a bit.
Check your ash pan gasket (and door gasket) by closing it on a dollar bill in different spots around the ash pan door. The bill should not pull out easily in any spot.
I'm not familiar with how your stove runs, though. You might try posting in the VC thread..those guys are experts but may not have seen this thread.
 
Probe said 1530 so I pulled out a split. There were only 3 medium splits left in my VC Encore 2040 flex burn. I quickly filled a big tall bucket of water 1/3 of the way, grabbed my tongs and pulled out a log and ran it outside setting off the new detectors. i guess that wood I had filled the stove with was really really dry. I have Olympia Ventis class A double wall pipe going straight up and out- no bends.
At what temperature do I need to start having my next heart attack?
At 1500 cat probe I start paying attention to my stove, observing the meter. Not throwing hot logs out of the firebox.
At 1600-1650 I open the primary air to 50%. Get some flamage in the box, stove top temp goes up cat temp goes down.
 
At 1500 cat probe I start paying attention to my stove, observing the meter. Not throwing hot logs out of the firebox.
At 1600-1650 I open the primary air to 50%. Get some flamage in the box, stove top temp goes up cat temp goes down.
It will happens on occasion when the conditions are just right. If I could pin point these conditions I would not allow such temps.
 
Double wall stove pipe so no thermometer on the pipe, temp was from a cat probe.
If I open the damper to cool off the cat the temperature in the box would go over 700, which Is also bad.
The VC thread has little activity, which is why I’m asking here.
 
At 1500 cat probe I start paying attention to my stove, observing the meter. Not throwing hot logs out of the firebox.
At 1600-1650 I open the primary air to 50%. Get some flamage in the box, stove top temp goes up cat temp goes down.

Wash coat flattening happens at 1600. After that, your cat will look the same but have greatly reduced surface area. Avoid if at all possible. This is why cat manufacturers tell you not to exceed 1500.
 
What are you using to measure your stove top temps? IR gun or magnetic meter. Magnetic meters can be off by as much as 200*f . 700 stovetop is mighty hot you would likely not be able to put your hand close to the top for more than 1-2 sec.
 
I have an old VC magnetic meter. It is kind of old and will replace it. What brand is most reliable? Also, I had a Ryobi IR gun but it went MIA with my teens at our outdoor fire pit.
 
Ir guns are most reliable. You can get them on sale for 20.00 sometimes. And they are fun to use in many applications. For example the temp of your pet resting next to the stove!!!

i have never found a magnetic thermometer that read Same as the IR.
 
Ryobi drills, saws, etc. are cheap and known to be okay for the occasional job around the house for homeowner use, and while I quickly picked up their IR gun a few years ago on A whim, I use Milwaukee, Dewalt, Snapon, and other brands when buying tools.
I will get a Condar Inferno magnetic thermometer as well, unless there is a better one out there.
 
From what I read here Condar thermo will keep its calibration for a while. I used to use the cheap magnetic ones and eventually trashed them all. I have one old one still stuck to the VC griddle. The numbers peeled off and I never pay attention to it. Flue probe thermometer and the cat probe will tell you what mostly goes on in your stove system.
 
Condar inferno magnetic for me! As good as any.

cat temp at 1530, just reduce intake air. Do not remove wood.
image.jpg
 
I will get a Condar Inferno magnetic thermometer as well, unless there is a better one out there.
There are better ones ( I don't know which) but the several Infernos I have check pretty close with the IR gun, and they are several years old.
 
I do have. Cat probe- that’s how I know my cat hit 1530.
I have double wall stove pipe so a magnetic is inaccurate for the pipe, and I’m concerned about drilling a hole in the stove pipe for a flue thermometer.
 
I just called Olympia and the tech people said I CAN drill a hoe into the stove pipe and use the Condar Flueguard thermomete.
 
I’m concerned about drilling a hole in the stove pipe for a flue thermometer.
No problem; Smoke doesn't come out, a small bit of air gets sucked in by the draft.
 
cat temp at 1530, just reduce intake air.
interestingly, VC does the opposite. You have to increase primary air and get some flames, primary combustion in order to reduce the cat temp.